NYFW Spring 2027: The Shows, The Trends, And The Designers You Need To Know

While New York Fashion Week marks only the opening chapter of fashion month, this season presented a wealth of noteworthy moments: an eagerly anticipated debut at DVF, an impressive second collection from Proenza Schouler, and a standout hue destined to dominate the season. In the latest installment of The Who What Wear Podcast, senior fashion editor Anna LaPlaca and Associate Director Kristen Nichols shared their immediate impressions fresh from the runway shows, offering detailed analysis of the collections, emerging trends, and emerging talent deserving attention. Key observations from their discussion appear below.

Anna LaPlaca highlighted DVF as the collection commanding her attention throughout the week, primarily due to Henry Zankov's appointment as the house's new artistic director. Having previously built his career at the brand working alongside Diane von Furstenberg, his homecoming represented a meaningful full-circle moment. She even came out for a hug at the end of the show. LaPlaca particularly praised his approach to color. DVF is known for print clashing, and the way he approached it felt really fresh, especially in how he reworked the wrap dress with color-blocked panels and contrasting ties pulled from the archives.

For Kristen Nichols, Proenza Schouler commanded her focus. Rachel Scott's second offering at the helm felt like she'd really settled in, fusing her own sense of print, color, and texture with everything we already love about the brand. The collection possessed an aspirational quality where every ensemble appeared worthy of wearing complete. The return of the PS1 Bag represents what Nichols anticipates will be a defining commercial and cultural moment heading into spring.

LaPlaca identified Conner Ives's transition from London to present on the New York calendar as a significant story, yet the collection substantiated the attention. Though categorized as an emerging brand, his perspective—incorporating opulent silks, detailed embroidery, evening jackets, and occasion wear moving into everyday dressing—is meeting the moment in a way that feels totally organic.

Nichols observed his London presentation during the previous season and found his New York iteration intriguing. The casting decisions reinforced his artistic vision, and it brought the clothes to life in a different way on the larger New York platform.

LaPlaca identified cobalt, alternatively described as Yves Klein blue, as spring 2027's defining chromatic choice. The shade appeared repeatedly across collections including Kallmeyer, Simkhai, and Calvin Klein.

Nichols encountered the same blue tone throughout Proenza Schouler's presentation as well. Beyond specific color choices, a real sense of romance and new takes on femininity characterized the season—evident in Ralph Lauren's offering, Altuzarra's vision, and Tory Burch's quirkier, embellished perspective on the concept.

This aesthetic direction connects to an ongoing evolution visible across multiple seasons: a new era of maximalism that's less about logos and more about texture, print, and mixing the two.

Nichols noted that jacquards and brocades—displaying rich printed textiles—are already appearing in fall collections, suggesting these textiles will maintain relevance heading toward spring deliveries.

LaPlaca emphasized evening jackets as a particularly wearable category. Throughout the week's street style documentation, these pieces appeared repeatedly paired with everyday denim or simple black trousers, suggesting they represent pieces worth investing in now rather than waiting for spring.

LaPlaca identified Jamie Haller, whose flat shoes have become a Who What Wear staple at this point, as someone whose inaugural presentation merits attention. She's also monitoring In House Studio, a label emphasizing minimalist aesthetics infused with athletic influences, produced through sustainable practices for customers gravitating toward The Row or Colleen Allen's approach.

Nichols included Colleen Allen on her watch list, noting that the designer continues with presentations rather than full-scale runway shows, and Nichols is waiting for that next step. She additionally highlighted Herbert Levine and Lii as emerging talents deserving consideration. AM