Seven Autumn Skincare Strategies That Dermatologists Say Work for Everyone

Summer brought forward several noteworthy skincare developments: skin doctors promoted retinal as superior to retinol for addressing discoloration, fine wrinkles, and acne with greater speed, while trendy injectable polynucleotides emerged as a competitor to specialized eye treatments for tackling under-eye shadows. Yet as autumn arrives, an entirely fresh collection of skincare movements is emerging.

The shift in seasons brings transformations everywhere, and for many, this is nowhere clearer than in their complexion. Dropping temperatures, heated indoor air, and reduced sun exposure all create the perfect storm for facial distress—and it appears this experience is widespread. Throughout recent days, searches for solutions to parched skin have surged, including "moisturizers for dehydrated complexions," "hydrating creams for dry faces," and related queries. The upcoming wave of skincare innovations, therefore, centers on maintaining a robust and resilient skin barrier as the weather cools.

Few professionals understand skin wellness as thoroughly as Kat Burki, a skin health expert and biochemist who established her own line of skincare products. Here are the skincare movements Burki identifies as particularly relevant heading into the colder months and beyond.

Reversing the Double Cleanse Sequence

Double cleansing remains a nearly universal recommendation among skincare authorities, particularly for nighttime routines. The initial cleansing step typically involves a micellar solution, cleansing oil, or balm to dissolve and lift away cosmetics, UV protection, and accumulated debris. The follow-up cleanse—commonly performed with a gel or foam product—removes any lingering residue completely. Burki endorses double cleansing but applies the sequence in reverse order, which proves particularly advantageous for those with dry or sensitive skin.

"I perform the inverse of the typical sequence to achieve thorough cleansing without compromising the skin's protective layer," Burki explained. "I begin with a gel cleanser, like my KB5 Calming Gel Cleanser, then finish with an oil-based cleanser," she continued. "The reasoning is that you want to preserve those nourishing components." For individuals whose skin feels uncomfortably tight and pulled after gel or foam cleansers, reversing the order and concluding with a more emollient product can mitigate this effect.

For those experiencing frequent breakouts or excess sebum production, replacing the oil or balm cleanser with a lightweight, non-comedogenic cream option is advisable. Recommended selections in this category include The Ordinary Glycolipid Cream Cleanser and Kate Somerville Goat Milk Moisturizing Cleanser.

Modified Vitamin C Formulations

For those attempting to incorporate vitamin C serums into their regimen but discovering that their skin becomes irritated, inflamed, and noticeably parched, the culprit is likely L-ascorbic acid, which represents pure vitamin C. Although this form demonstrates remarkable effectiveness in stimulating collagen synthesis and defending against oxidative damage from environmental pollutants, its potency means that certain skin conditions cannot tolerate it well. Burki addresses this by turning to stabilized vitamin C alternatives in her formulations. These derivatives are chemically adjusted versions of vitamin C that remain more stable during storage (they won't degrade to an orange tint and lose potency) and create far fewer adverse reactions on the skin.

Within her Vitamin C Intensive Face Cream, Burki includes STAY-C, an ingredient she describes as follows: "This represents a steady form of vitamin C that transforms into pure ascorbic acid [L-ascorbic acid] once absorbed into skin layers." Essentially, this formulation delivers the effectiveness of the stronger option while avoiding the sensitizing and drying complications. Budget-conscious shoppers can find similar benefits in The Inkey List C-50 Serum, which similarly incorporates STAY-C, or The Ordinary's Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12%, which employs a different vitamin C alternative called ascorbyl glucoside. "I'm a firm advocate for these modified forms because they offer reduced intensity but accomplish what's needed efficiently," stated Burki. To summarize, stabilized vitamin C formulations represent the direction skincare is heading—particularly for individuals with compromised or reactive skin.

Moving Beyond Collagen-Infused Products

Chilly weather combined with central heating strips away skin's natural moisture levels, leaving complexions appearing dull, flaky, and lacking volume. If you're already incorporating hydrating elements like hyaluronic acid or glycerin but haven't observed meaningful improvements, you might be tempted by marketing surrounding collagen-based moisturizers.

Skin naturally generates collagen; this protein bestows firmness and architectural support to facial tissue. With advancing age, collagen production declines, resulting in reduced skin plumpness. However, Burki points out a critical reality regarding collagen cosmetics: "Collagen cannot be reintroduced into skin via topical applications like serums or creams."

Collagen particles are simply too large to cross the skin barrier meaningfully, making collagen-containing skincare primarily just an additional hydrating layer. Instead, Burki advises eliminating collagen from your collection and introducing a well-formulated vitamin C treatment—similar to the derivatives mentioned previously—into your morning regimen to encourage collagen formation from deeper within. Pair this with broad-spectrum sunscreen of high potency to further shield skin against the collagen-degrading consequences of solar exposure.

Enhanced Moisturizing Formulas

Frigid conditions necessitate components designed to fortify your skin barrier—the uppermost skin layer. Consider intensely hydrating options like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and ceramides, substances that operate as adhesive between skin cells to preserve suppleness and refinement. Burki recommends staying alert for an additional powerhouse component anticipated this fall and winter.

That component is astaxanthin, which Burki describes as an "exceptionally potent moisturizing agent."

Scientific research demonstrates that when astaxanthin is applied topically through skincare goods, it improves conditions such as persistent dryness and uncomfortable itching. Additional investigations show potential for enhanced skin flexibility and diminished expression lines. Beyond these advantages, it also possesses antioxidant properties that defend against environmental hazards including pollution and harmful sun rays, according to Burki: "In terms of protective strength, it's comparable to vitamin C amplified thousands of times."

Burki's Bio Correcting Face Cream carries a higher price point but delivers observable results. Beyond astaxanthin, this product combines protective antioxidant vitamins (C and E), deeply nourishing squalane, anti-inflammatory centella asiatica, skin-renewing lactic acid, and CoQ10, an additional protective antioxidant. Though astaxanthin remains relatively unfamiliar to mainstream consumers, it also appears in Kopari Bright as Day Sheer Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50 and Drunk Elephant Bora Barrier Repair Cream.

Reconsidering How to Use Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid represents a hydrating agent—a substance category that draws and retains water within the skin, producing a more volumized and supple appearance. Numerous skincare professionals advocate implementing hyaluronic acid preparations on moistened skin to maximize its hydrating potential, yet Burki questions this approach. "There's no requirement to apply hyaluronic acid on wet skin," she noted. "Despite the existence of multiple hyaluronic acid types, none mandate this specific application method."

Contemporary research backs this perspective. An investigation performed by The Ordinary revealed that whether their Hyaluronic Acid + B5 + Ceramides product was distributed on moist or dry skin made negligible difference to the final hydration results. While individual hyaluronic acid formulations vary in effectiveness, layering your hyaluronic acid treatment with a hydrating cream afterward proves comparably beneficial—and considerably more convenient than wrestling with a liquid serum using damp hands.

Moderating Niacinamide Application

Niacinamide, commonly referred to as vitamin B3, delivers numerous advantages for skin: It regulates sebaceous secretion (which can diminish acne formation), minimizes the visibility of enlarged pores, and fortifies the skin's capacity to retain hydration, thereby reducing dehydration. Excessively concentrated formulations, however, can provoke irritation, Burki cautions, and excessive use causes complications. The outcome frequently manifests as rough, peeling skin.

If you wish to start or maintain niacinamide use as fall approaches but have a drier skin type, Burki advises selecting formulations with reduced niacinamide percentages, ideally 2% or beneath. Her BioCell Correcting Serum combines niacinamide alongside peptides that reinforce the skin matrix and astaxanthin. Those seeking a budget-friendly substitute might consider The Ordinary Soothing and Barrier Support Serum, which pairs 2% niacinamide with skin-fortifying ceramides.

A Different Approach to Skin Renewal

Glycolic acid stands as perhaps the most widely used chemical exfoliating ingredient available, and while its capacity for opening blocked pores and lightening dark spots is substantial, high dosages can deteriorate the protective skin barrier through repeated application. For this reason, Burki advocates for enzyme-based exfoliants sourced from fruit, which provide comparable skin-renewing benefits with considerably gentler action. Using products containing enzymes—whether in cleanser or toner form—facilitates skin cell turnover and maintains equilibrium of the skin's microbiota (the beneficial microbial population that sustains skin equilibrium). Burki suggests her PH+ Enzyme Essence. Additional recommendations encompass Kate Somerville ExfoliKate Cleanser Daily Foaming Wash and Josie Maran Pineapple Enzyme Exfoliating + Brightening Foaming Gel Cleanser. Post-exfoliation restoration proves essential. Following exfoliating treatment, Burki emphasizes "nourishing" your skin with abundant hydrating and emollient elements including ceramides. AM