Beyond the Official Calendar: London's Secret Fashion Week Takeover

London Fashion Week SS27 brings considerable reasons for anticipation. Alexander McQueen is returning to the British capital for the first time in a quarter-century. Christopher Kane will mark his inaugural collection at Mulberry, and a roster of emerging talent—spanning designers like Gui Rosa and Liza Keane—rounds out the lineup. While the official BFC schedule offers plenty to explore, an equally vibrant ecosystem of presentations and shows flourishes outside those formal parameters.

Each season, some of the most thrilling collections debut on an IYKYK basis, and this season proves no different. Throughout this week, several of London's most talked-about emerging names are unveiling their latest work off-schedule, operating with a semi-clandestine approach where promotion flows directly to their existing audiences rather than through traditional channels. Here are the under-the-radar presentations capturing our attention.

A recent graduate from Central Saint Martins MA Fashion (class of 2026), Telford-born designer Kai Ghattaura characterizes his aesthetic as "postmodern ragebait clothing." His conceptual foundation draws heavily from digital culture and, particularly, from the gaming universes he spent his adolescence immersed in—though his pieces have gained considerable recognition through EsDeeKid, a devoted advocate for his work. Following his February graduation, Ghattaura is staging an off-schedule presentation in collaboration with partner Fin Forsyth. Regarding what attendees might anticipate, he offers this invitation: "Come and play with us."

"I get inspiration from found things, from reading, artwork, talking to people and even from certain sentences," Ellen Poppy Hill shared in an earlier conversation. For this collection, the south London-based creator appears to have drawn from an unexpected source: pencil shavings, at least judging from her recent social media documentation. Operating on an annual show cadence, this season marks her third outing as a designer, with the collection bearing the title Sharpen Up Your Act!.

London's most coveted leather specialist is finally launching its inaugural runway event. Established in 2018 by Ruby Mariani, R&M Leathers has cultivated a devoted following across eight years, with admirers ranging from recording artists to international style icons. Tomorrow evening brings the unveiling of 'MISS LEATHERS,' a catwalk presentation staged in east London in partnership with Pornhub—a collaboration that elevates the brand's already provocative reputation.

The London-based Saudi designer Layal Balubaid continues building momentum with her comedic approach to couture construction. Her admirers include Rama Duwaji, the First Lady of New York City, as well as fashion observers broadly. Currently pursuing an MA at Central Saint Martins, Balubaid is marking London Fashion Week by opening her studio workspace to visitors. "Want to see my pieces up close? Try things on? Be nosy? Bring me a present? Now you can!" she declares, inviting the public to experience her work in person and in situ.

Greek designer George Trochopoulos rose to prominence after his signature mussel-shell bolero circulated widely online—a piece embraced by Solange and Tyla alike. His clientele encompasses SZA, Jorja Smith, Anok Yai, and Quen Blackwell, and this coming Friday, he is orchestrating an intimate off-schedule presentation in Fitzrovia. "The past few years I have been getting to know my girl. I hope this season I can give you a proper introduction to her," Trochopoulos reflects on the evolution of his design perspective.

Though Lili Curia launched only in the previous year, the label has already established itself as a fixture within fashion circles. Recognized for its flirtatious, retro-inspired footwear sensibility, Lili Curia counts admirers including Lisa and Suki Waterhouse. This Saturday morning, the brand is commandeering space within Dover Street Market. Rather than adding to the intensity of London Fashion Week's pace, Lili Curia is hosting a quiet reading session featuring model Tali Lennox—offering respite during an otherwise frenetic calendar.