The Sultan of Sequins: Bob Mackie, Legendary Costumer to Cher and the Glitterati, Dies at 87

Bob Mackie, the storied fashion and costume designer whose elaborate creations adorned pop superstars including Cher, Tina Turner, Diana Ross, and countless others, has passed away at age 87, according to an announcement made through his Instagram account.

"It is with a heavy heart that we share the news that Mr. Bob Mackie passed away today," the statement read. "He lived his 87 years to the fullest, fulfilling his dream of being a Fashion and Costume Designer, which is all he ever wanted to do. His genius and extraordinary designs will live on forever, continuing to bring beauty into this world."

The cause of his death was not disclosed.

Mackie earned recognition for his ornate and theatrical approach to fashion design, garnering monikers such as the "Sultan of Sequins" and "Guru of Glitter." His spanning partnership with pop legend Cher, which lasted six decades, brought him considerable prominence as he created her costuming for The Cher Show, appearances at the Met Gala, and touring performances.

Born in 1939 in Monterey Park, California, Mackie discovered his passion for costume design after attending the theatrical film An American in Paris, which captivated him with its intricate choreography and inspired him to pursue his calling as a designer.

During his formative years in the industry, Mackie apprenticed under established costume designers Jean Louis and Edith Head. His breakthrough moment arrived when he joined The Carol Burnett Show, where his responsibilities included producing approximately 60 costumes each week, notably fashioning a campy outfit constructed from actual curtains and rod for a comedic recreation of Gone With the Wind. In 1963, Mackie encountered designer Ray Aghayan, with whom he established a partnership—both professional and personal—that endured until Aghayan's passing in 2011.

The designer's storied working relationship with disco phenomenon Cher commenced during the 1970s. In addition to crafting numerous signature ensembles for her, he confronted and pushed back against broadcasting restrictions concerning acceptable clothing. Among his most revolutionary achievements was a garment that exposed Cher's midsection, positioning her as the maiden performer sanctioned to display her navel on television.

Cher shared her remembrance on X, writing: "My dear Bob has gone up to heaven. Knowing him, he's bringing sequins, beads, and his sketch pad. Good night sweet prince."

Beyond his collaborations with Cher and Burnett, Mackie's clientele encompassed Whitney Houston, Mitzi Gaynor, Bette Midler, Liza Minelli, and RuPaul. As his work gained prominence in the fashion world, the performers selected to wear his designs earned the designation "Mackie Girls." Contemporary music's most prominent figures, among them Beyoncé, Sabrina Carpenter, Miley Cyrus, and Taylor Swift, have all donned archive pieces from his collection.

Carpenter expressed her gratitude through an Instagram Story: "I feel so lucky to have met Bob. His one of a kind creations have inspired and brought so much happiness and confidence to my world and they will continue to always x Mackie girl forever." Cyrus also offered her tribute to the designer, saying: "You completed me. I love you."

While his primary focus remained womenswear, Mackie extended his creative vision to menswear projects, designing costumes for Elton John and the Jackson Five. During the 1980s, he undertook a unique assignment: creating designs for Barbie. In his work developing limited-edition collectible dolls for Mattel, Mackie advocated for the manufacturer to produce dolls representing varied ethnicities and cultural backgrounds, often dressing these dolls in garments that celebrated and honored their respective heritage.

The prolific body of work created by Mackie and Aghayan in the entertainment and broadcast sectors garnered numerous recognitions and accolades. The duo received three nominations for Academy Award Best Costume Design (for 1973's Lady Sings the Blues, 1976's Funny Lady, and 1982's Pennies from Heaven). Within the Emmy Awards realm, Mackie accrued more than 30 nominations and secured nine victories, honoring his contributions to productions with Cher, Burnett, and Ross. In 2019, Mackie obtained the Tony Award recognizing costume design excellence for his work on the Cher Show musical jukebox.

The Council of Fashion Designers of America recognized Mackie with an honor in 2001, and in 2019 bestowed upon him their award for lifetime accomplishment. He holds the distinction of being the inaugural costume designer elected to the Television Academy Hall of Fame in 2002.

In a 2019 conversation with Rolling Stone, Mackie articulated his underlying principles in approaching costume design, stating: "These are all big-personality people. They're not just up there dressed up. You're always looking for that look, that gag that makes the act special. It's all about making them look good and entertaining the audience visually as well." AM